There’s a specific pleasure, particular to July afternoons in New Brunswick, in ordering a cold beer from a bar that’s standing in the sand. At Morse et Marteaux’s Parlee Beach location, that bar exists, and it faces the warmest saltwater bay in Canada. You can walk to it barefoot. You can carry the drink back to your blanket without crossing a parking lot.

The food operation beside the bar’s a smokehouse and lobster shack wearing sunglasses. Smoked brisket, pulled pork, and ribs come out of the same kitchen approach as our downtown location, but here the plates arrive sun-warm. The lobster rolls are what Parlee visitors have been asking for across half a century of summer vacations: New Brunswick’s signature crustacean, served without pretension, in a toasted bun, with a paper napkin you will almost certainly need.